Palestinian Territories

Why the Palestinian Territories

There are journeys that do not leave you unscathed. The West Bank is one of them. Here, every stone column, every checkpoint, every smile behind a kanafeh stall carries the weight of millennia of history and news that makes the headlines. Yet we should be careful not to reduce this territory to its crises: Bethlehem, Jericho and Ramallah welcome travelers every year, and what they bring back is unlike anything else.

Bethlehem, perched 775 meters above sea level in the Judean Hills, is home to the Basilica of the Nativity, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Jericho, nestled 258 meters below sea level in the Jordan Valley, claims the title of the oldest continuous city in the world: ten thousand years of human occupation beneath its feet. Ramallah, the de facto cultural and political capital, pulsates with a creative youth that has not given up inventing its future.

It's not a trip like any other. Maybe that's why it stays engraved.

When to go

Spring (March to June) is the queen period: the hills of the West Bank are covered with almond and olive blossoms, temperatures fluctuate between 15 and 25°C, and Easter transforms Bethlehem into a vibrant place of pilgrimage. Autumn (October-November) offers the tranquil beauty of the olive harvest, an unchanging agricultural ritual that opens the doors of rural families. December is very popular for Christmas: the midnight mass in the Church of the Nativity is a rare experience, but the prices and crowds are at their highest. Summer remains bearable in Bethlehem (high altitude), but Jericho reaches 38°C in August: book the sunrise tours.

How much does it cost

The West Bank is not a cheap destination if you include flights to Tel Aviv. A 6-day tour organized from Paris (flights, accommodation, guides) starts at around 1,500 euros per person in the low season, and goes up to 2,600-3,500 euros in an all-inclusive accompanied formula (Voyageurs du Monde). If you're independent from Jerusalem, you can expect to pay 60 to 110 euros per day and per person: accommodation in a guesthouse in Bethlehem costs around 50-80 euros per night, a local meal costs 8-15 euros, and a Bethlehem-Jericho taxi costs around 40 euros. Archaeological sites are inexpensive (5-10 NIS entry). Bring shekels in cash: ATMs are rare in the West Bank.

Where to go

Bethlehem: at the heart of Christian memory

The Basilica of the Nativity, built in the fourth century under Constantine and then enlarged by Justinian, is the oldest Christian building in continuous use in the world. As you descend into the grotto, a fourteen-pointed silver star marks the traditional location of Christ's birth. You come out of it differently, believer or not.

But Bethlehem is not just about faith. The separation wall that has run along the city since 2003 has attracted artists from all over the world, including the mysterious Banksy who has turned the Walled Off Hotel into an open-air museum. The spice souk, artisanal soap factories and mother-of-pearl workshops complete a rich day.

Jericho: the oldest city in the world

To descend to Jericho is to descend below the surface of the earth: at 258 meters below sea level, the heat is dry and the air is still. The site of Tell es-Sultan reveals city walls built around 8000 BCE, prior to writing. Right next door, the Umayyad palace of Hisham (eighth century), half-sanded, displays a mosaic of staggering fine floors. The cable car to the Mount of Temptation offers a dizzying panorama of the Jordan plain.

Ramallah: the contemporary Palestinian pulse

Ramallah confuses travellers who arrive with preconceived ideas. The terraces are crowded in the evenings, the art galleries exhibit internationally renowned visual artists, and the best restaurants serve revisited Palestinian cuisine that has nothing to envy to the tables of Beirut. The Mukata, the headquarters of the Palestinian Authority, houses the mausoleum of Yasser Arafat, a sober and meditative place of remembrance. At the gates of the city, the Palestine Museum (Bir Zeit) is one of the most beautiful cultural spaces in the Middle East.

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In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

French nationals do not need a traditional visa to access the West Bank. On the other hand, entry into Israel (mandatory door) requires since January 1, 2025 an electronic ETA-IL authorization (25 NIS, about 6 euros), to be obtained online before departure via the website of the Israeli Immigration Authority. Passport valid for at least 6 months is required. Access to Bethlehem, Jericho and Ramallah is from Jerusalem in 30 to 45 minutes by taxi, passing through Israeli military checkpoints. Checks can be long and searches of luggage are frequent. French nationals with Arabic-sounding names sometimes report prolonged interrogations: let your guide or tour operator know.

Another entry point is the Allenby/Hussein Bridge from Jordan (Amman to Jericho), which is open to tourists but subject to draconian schedules and controls on both sides.

The Gaza Strip has been formally discouraged and inaccessible since October 2023: no visits are possible.

Source of authority to consult before departure:diplomatie.gouv.fr/israel-palestine.

Getting around

In the West Bank, the most convenient transport for tourists is private Palestinian taxis (white plates, mandatory in Area A). Servises (collective minibuses) are cheaper but not suitable with luggage. Approximate distances from Jerusalem: Bethlehem 8 km (30 min), Jericho 36 km (40 min), Ramallah 15 km (40 min). Renting a car is possible but complex: vehicles with Israeli plates cannot enter Area A, and Israeli rental agencies contractually prohibit it. The simplest option is the organized tour with an English-speaking Palestinian driver.

Culture and uses

The West Bank is predominantly Muslim (about 93%), with a historic Christian presence in Bethlehem, Beit Sahour and the surrounding villages. Cover your shoulders and knees to visit places of worship, regardless of religion. On Friday afternoons, shops often close. Do not photograph military checkpoints or soldiers: this is strongly discouraged. In conversations, listen more than you talk about political issues: locals appreciate being heard, not judged. Palestinian hospitality is legendary: accepting a coffee or tea is a bond. Tips (5-10%) are welcome for guides and restaurants.

Frequently asked questions