Practical advice
Formalities
Serbia is not a member of the European Union or the Schengen Area. French nationals enter freely for less than 90 days with a valid passport or national identity card. No visa required.
Non-EU nationals should check the specific requirements for their nationality with the relevant Serbian embassy or consulate. Some nationalities enjoy the bilateral visa waiver; others must apply for a Schengen visa (not valid for Serbia, which is not Schengen) or a specific Serbian visa.
A practical detail that is often ignored: if you are staying in a private home (and not in a hotel), you must declare your presence to the district police station within 48 hours of your arrival. Hotels will automatically take care of this for you.
Getting around
By plane:Only one major international airport, Belgrade Nikola Tesla (BEG), connects Serbia to Paris in 2h25-2h45 non-stop. Air Serbia, Ryanair and Wizz Air operate the route. Flights exist from Lyon and other French cities with a connection.
By bus:The long-distance bus network is the backbone of transport in Serbia. Comfortable, punctual and very cheap. Belgrade-Novi Sad: 1 hour 15 minutes for 6 euros. Belgrade-Niš: 3 hours for 12 euros. The bus stations are well equipped. Flixbus also covers some routes.
By train:The rail network exists but suffers from ageing infrastructure: travel times are often double those of the bus for an equivalent journey. A notable exception is the Šargan Eight in Mokra Gora, a historic narrow-gauge train with a tourist heritage in its own right.
By car:Essential for monasteries in the Novi Pazar area, Danube Gorge and rural areas. National roads are in good condition; secondary roads to monasteries can be winding but are passable by ordinary car. Rental from 15-30 euros per day in Belgrade.
In Belgrade:Trams, buses and trolleybuses cover the city for 0.40 euros per trip. Taxis are very affordable (Naxis or CarGo app recommended to avoid arbitrary fares). Bolt and Uber also operate.
Culture and uses
Serbia is a country with a Slavic Orthodox culture, with a marked Ottoman influence in some regions (Sandžak, Pčinja Valley). Some useful landmarks to travel with ease.
Language:Serbian is written in two alphabets, Cyrillic and Latin, depending on the context. In tourist areas, English is well understood. Some Serbian words to memorize:hvala(thank you),Molim(please),Dobar Dan(hello),izvinite(excuse me),DA/NE(yes/no). Serbs genuinely appreciate travelers who make the effort of a few words in their language.
The kafana:The central social institution of Serbia. These neighborhood taverns, often decorated with cloth tablecloths and old photos, serve traditional cuisine (ćevapi, pljeskavica, grills), beer and rakija in an atmosphere of relaxed conviviality. The meals are long, the discussions lively, the service warm. This is where Serbia really reveals itself.
Tips:Not mandatory but appreciated. 10% in restaurants, round up for taxis. Service is usually not included in the bill.
The monasteries:Respectful clothing is required (shoulders and knees covered). Some monasteries are still inhabited by monks or nuns. Silence and discretion are required. Photography is sometimes forbidden inside (check the signs).
Rakija:The national brandy, distilled from plum (šljivovica), quince or apricot depending on the region. You will be offered it before any meal or visit to a private home. Refusing is sometimes perceived as rudeness; accepting a small glass is enough to honor Serbian hospitality.