French Polynesia

Why French Polynesia

There are destinations that keep the promise kept. French Polynesia is one of them. One hundred and eighteen islands scattered over an area the size of Europe, five archipelagos with radically different characters, an ocean that shifts between the midnight blue of the open sea and the sea green of a lagoon protected by a coral reef. We thought we had understood when we looked at photos. When we set foot there, we realize that no image is enough.

Bora Bora alone concentrates all the images of Epinal: Mount Otemanu that emerges from the water like a basalt fist, bungalows on stilts that float above an unreal lagoon, leopard rays that glide under the wooden planks. But Polynesia is not just about Bora Bora. Moorea offers green valleys and an intimacy that the large luxury islands have lost. Rangiroa and Fakarava, in the Tuamotu archipelago, are legendary diving atolls. Finally, in the Marquesas, it is a harsh and wild Polynesia, without a lagoon, that awaits those who seek the absence of everything.

It's not a passing destination. It's a destination of immersion, slowness, colors. And despite one of the highest budgets in the world, those who come back rarely think it was too expensive.

When to go

French Polynesia has two distinct seasons. The dry season, from May to October, is the reference period: moderate humidity, mild temperatures around 22-27°C, low rainfall, calm seas. June and July are the peak of tourism, driven by the Heiva festival in Papeete (Polynesian open-air dance and singing competition) and the French school holidays. Book flights and accommodation 6 months in advance.

August is still a great option, with rates slightly lower than July and a dwindling influx. May and September are the ideal months for divers (maximum visibility, fewer people in the passes) and travelers who prefer to avoid the crowds.

The wet season (November-April) brings daily tropical rains, sometimes torrential, and a low but real risk of cyclones. December concentrates more than 600 mm of precipitation on Tahiti. If you are traveling in January-March, choose covered accommodation and plan B: some stays in bungalows on stilts lose their magic in the rain.

How much does it cost

French Polynesia is one of the most expensive destinations in the world, without exception. A few concrete landmarks: a bungalow on stilts in a 5-star resort in Bora Bora costs from €700 to €2,000 per night for two people, excluding meals. A lunch in a caravan (the street stalls of Papeete, an essential local option) costs €15-25 per person. An Air Tahiti ticket between Papeete and Bora Bora costs about €150 one way.

The good news: alternatives exist. The guesthouses on the atolls (Rangiroa, Fakarava, Huahine) offer rooms between €80 and €150 per night with half board, with snorkeling from the pontoon included. On Moorea, intermediate category hotels (€300-500/night for two) allow you to enjoy the lagoon without emptying your account. A 12-day organized tour in Polynesia starts at around €2,800 per person excluding flights. You must add the Paris-Papeete flight: from €900 (low season promotions) to €1,800 in high season.

The CFP franc (XPF) has been pegged to the euro at a fixed rate (1 EUR = 119.33 XPF) since 1999. No exchange rate surprises from France.

Where to go

Polynesia is divided into five archipelagos with very different personalities. The Windward Islands (Tahiti, Moorea) form the heart of the community and the obligatory air hub. The Leeward Islands (Bora-Bora, Huahine, Raiatea, Maupiti) are home to the most spectacular lagoons. The Tuamotu Islands (Rangiroa, Fakarava, Tikehau) are a diver's paradise: almost flat atolls, current-filled passes and some of the richest coral beds in the Pacific. The Marquesas Islands are in their own right: no lagoon, no white sand, only cliffs, deep valleys and a Polynesian culture that is still alive. Finally, the Austral Islands attract humpback whale enthusiasts between July and October.

Bora Bora: the most famous island in the world

Bora Bora can be found overrated, overcrowded, overpriced. And yet, as soon as the plane descends on the turquoise lagoon surrounded by snorkeled motu, you understand why this island has imposed itself as a symbol of the absolute. Mount Otemanu (727 meters) dominates everything, including the hotel complexes that invented the bungalow on stilts in the 1960s. Snorkeling with manta rays and blacktip sharks in the clear waters is accessible from most hotels.

Moorea: the perfect island to unwind

Thirty minutes by ferry from Papeete, Moorea is the pleasant surprise of any Polynesian crossing. Cheaper, less known, but just as beautiful: the bays of Cook and Opunohu seen from the belvedere of Mount Rotui are among the most striking panoramas of the Pacific. You can swim with dolphins in the lagoon, rent an e-bike for the tour of the island, stop at the pineapple juice presses of the Rotui distillery.

Rangiroa and Fakarava: the atolls of divers

Rangiroa is one of the largest atolls in the world. Its inner lagoon is 80 km long. The Tiputa and Avatoru passes are home to an underwater fauna of rare density: schools of barracuda, grey sharks carried by the currents, dolphins playing in the eddies. Fakarava, classified as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, goes even further: the South Pass hosts a gathering of several hundred grey sharks every June-July. A spectacle that experienced divers do not forget.

The Marquesas: Polynesia without a lagoon

1,500 km from Tahiti, the Marquesas Islands are another planet. No lagoon, eroded volcanoes that fall into the sea, deep valleys populated by wild horses and basalt tiki lost in the vegetation. Hiva Oa is Gauguin's last island (he is buried there). Nuku Hiva is the largest island, starting point for hikes to the Vaipo waterfalls. The Aranui 5 cargo cruise, which serves the Marquesas Islands from Papeete in 13 days, is a unique experience in itself.

Our itineraries

Three main logics of travel in Polynesia. The first course is aimed at lovers and discoverers of luxury: Tahiti for the arrival and the local culture, Moorea for the sweetness, Bora-Bora for the finale in apotheosis. It is the honeymoon tour par excellence. The second is designed for divers: the Tuamotu (Rangiroa, Fakarava) with their legendary passes, before the visual reward of Bora-Bora. The third is the three-week grand tour for those who want to see Polynesia in all its diversity, from the lagoons to the Marquesan cliffs.

In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

French Polynesia is an overseas collectivity of the French Republic. French nationals do not need a visa and can travel there with only their national identity card. No passport is mandatory for French nationals. Schengen nationals are exempt from visa requirements for a stay of less than 3 months. For other nationalities, a valid passport and a visa may be required: check with the competent French consulate before departure.

The currency is the CFP franc (XPF), pegged to the euro at a fixed rate (1 EUR = 119.33 XPF). No exchange rate risk from France.

Getting around

Fa'a'ā International Airport (PPT) is the only international entry point, located 5 km from Papeete. Air France and Air Tahiti Nui provide direct connections from Paris-CDG (about 21h30 non-stop flight). The inter-island airline Air Tahiti serves about thirty islands from Papeete: count from €100 to €400 one way depending on the destination. If you visit several archipelagos, the Air Tahiti pass (on sale before departure from France) is often more economical.

The Aremiti ferry connects Papeete to Moorea in 30 minutes for about €15 one way, several times a day. For the Marquesas, the Aranui 5 cargo cruise is the alternative to domestic flights: a 13-day crossing that stops in all remote villages.

Culture and uses

Polynesians are renowned for their warm welcome (the ia orana, hello in Tahitian, opens all doors). French is the administrative and commercial language; Tahitian is the language of everyday life and the heart. Learning a few words in Tahitian (ia orana, mauruuru for thank you) is always very well received.

Tipping is not rooted in the local culture: it is not mandatory but appreciated in restaurants and for guides. Polynesia is an expensive but honest destination: prices are displayed, tourist scams are extremely rare. Respect sacred sites (marae) in silence. Sun protection is essential (sunshine close to the equator): choose creams without oxybenzono to protect the corals.

Frequently asked questions