Where to go in Mongolia
Mongolia can be visited by 4x4 circuits: the distances are immense, the asphalt roads are rare, and most of the sites are discovered on improvised tracks in the steppe or the desert. A good driver-guide is your best passport.
Ulaanbaatar, the starting point
A chaotic and endearing capital, Ulaanbaatar is home to half of the country's population. The Gandan Monastery (Gandantegchinlen) is the Buddhist heart of the city, with its 26-meter-high golden statue of Migjid Janraisig. The National Museum traces 6,000 years of steppe history, from the first Huns to the Mongol Empire. The visit is worth a day before hitting the road.
The Gobi Desert, a wild immensity
Contrary to any desert cliché, the Gobi is a kaleidoscope of landscapes: the orange cliffs of Bayanzag (the "Flames of Fire"), where the world's first dinosaur eggs were discovered, alternate with the rocky canyons of Yol Am and the titan dunes of Khongoryn Els. These 300-metre-high dunes emit a dull rumble when the wind blows through them, hence their nickname "Singing Dunes". Unforgettable.
The Orkhon Valley and Karakorum, the historic heart
The Orkhon Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the cradle of historic Mongolia. The river winds through a perfectly green steppe, punctuated by nomadic camps. The Orkhon Waterfall (Ulaan Tsutgalan, 24 meters) is one of the most beautiful in the country. In Karakorum, the Erdene Zuu Monastery, built in the 16th century with the very stones of the imperial capital of Genghis Khan, is one of the highlights of Mongolian Buddhism.
Khustain Nuruu, the return of the wild horse
Just 100 km from Ulaanbaatar, this national park is home to the Przewalski's horse (takhi), the only truly wild horse on the planet. Reintroduced after their extinction in the wild in the 1960s, these small, robust horses with erect manes now graze in harems in the grasslands. Watching a group of takhi roaming freely in the steppe at sunset is one of the most moving moments Mongolia has to offer.
Lake Khövsgöl, the pearl of the north
On the edge of Siberia, Lake Khövsgöl is a world apart: its crystal clear blue waters stretch for 136 km between larch forests and snow-capped mountains. It is the land of the Tsaatans, reindeer herders among the last in the world, who can be met with a local guide in the taiga.