Where to go in Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan is not visited like you visit a normal-sized country. You have to choose: either the Southeast (Almaty, Charyn, Kaindy, most of the tourist potential), or the North (Astana and the steppe), or the Northeast Altai (expedition of several days). Rare are the travelers who do everything in one go.
Almaty, the city that looks at the mountains
The former capital is the country's largest city and its undisputed tourist heart. Almatians are proud of their mountains: the peaks of the Tian Shan form a wall of snow as a permanent backdrop to the city, whatever the season. The Zeleny Bazar market is a condensed version of Kazakhstan: spices, mountain honey, sheep's cheese, smoked meats and kumis (fermented mare's milk). The Shymbulak cable car climbs up to 3,200 meters in 20 minutes from the city.
Astana, the capital of the future
Built ex nihilo on a steppe plain from the 1990s, Astana is a unique architectural experience in the world: the Bayterek Tower (97 metres, golden sphere at the top), the Khan Shatyr (a gigantic air-conditioned tent housing a tropical park), the Pyramid of Peace designed by Norman Foster. To love or not to like, but not to see is impossible. In summer, the city comes alive on Nurzhol Boulevard; in winter, it closes in under polar temperatures.
Le canyon de Charyn
200 km east of Almaty, accessible for a day trip or overnight on site, the Charyn Canyon is one of the great surprises of the country. The section known as the "Valley of the Castles" concentrates the most spectacular sandstone formations: columns, arches, ochre and burgundy towers that change color according to the light. The bottom of the canyon, with its river and its small forest of relict ash trees, contrasts with the dryness of the plateau. Few people, a lot of silence.
Lake Kaindy and Kolsai Gorge
Lake Kaindy is perhaps the most surreal image of Kazakhstan: a transparent turquoise water from which emerge the skeletal trunks of a fir forest submerged in an earthquake in 1911. The site is classified as a border area, but the Kazakh authorities have explicitly opened it to tourists without any particular approach. Access by 4x4 from the village of Saty (2 hours from Almaty) is part of the adventure: mountain tracks, rivers to ford, yurts along the road.
Shymkent and the South Silk
The third largest city in the country, Shymkent is more southern in its flavors and atmosphere: lively covered bazaars, culinary specialties close to neighboring Uzbekistan (lagman, samsa), and the remains of a medieval citadel on the caravan route. It's a logical stop for those who continue to Uzbekistan.