Faroe Islands

Why the Faroe Islands

Eighteen islands rise from the North Atlantic between Norway and Iceland, a three-hour flight from Paris but light years away from the ordinary. Here, the cliffs plunge steeply into a constantly turbulent ocean, the villages perched on the edge of the void have ten houses and a cemetery, and the sheep outnumber the inhabitants. The Faroe Islands are not a destination to tick off: they are a must-see.

This autonomous territory of Denmark has long been the preserve of professional photographers and naturalists in search of puffins. Since then, the Múlafossur Waterfall in Gásadalur and Lake Sørvágsvatn floating above the ocean have gone viral, and the curious flock between June and August. Yet, even in high season, you only need to walk twenty minutes out of the signposted viewpoints to find yourself alone in the wind and the horizon.

The light changes every ten minutes. A clear blue sky topples over in ten seconds in a ceiling of mist that erases the cliffs. It is this radical unpredictability that makes the Faroes such a photographic destination: each image is a lucky accident, never reproducible.

When to go

The high season runs from May to August. May offers an almost unreal green grass after the long winter months, and puffins begin to nest on the cliffs of Mykines. June brings the near-white nights (the sun doesn't set until 11pm in June) and a growing influx of visitors. July is the month of Ólavsøka, the national holiday from July 28-29 in Tórshavn, with traditional boat races in the harbor and concerts until dawn.

September is the surprise of the season: tourists are scarce, the golden autumn light spreads over the hills, and prices drop. The puffins are gone, but the cliffs are still accessible.

November to March is the land of storms and seasoned travellers. Six hours of daylight, winds of 100 km/h, cancelled ferries. For some, this is exactly the reason to go.

How much does it cost

The Faroe Islands are a Scandinavian destination: you need the budget accordingly. Count 150 to 200 € per person per day all inclusive, with decent accommodation (guest house or small hotel). The main item of expense is car rental, essential to explore the archipelago: 60 to 90 €/day for a standard vehicle.

Meals in a local restaurant range from €25 to €40 for a dish. Faroese cuisine revolves around fish (dried cod, farmed salmon, herring), lamb (skerpikjøt, wind-fermented meat, is a divisive specialty) and some Danish imports. Supermarkets allow you to reduce the bill, especially for breakfasts and picnics while hiking.

An organized 7-night tour (accommodation, car, some guided excursions) starts at around €1,400 to €1,800 per person depending on the season, excluding flights. For independent travelers, it is quite possible to go down to €100-120/day by opting for youth hostels and homestays.

Where to go

The archipelago is compact: you can connect Tórshavn to Gásadalur in 1h30 by car via the underwater tunnels. This relative accessibility should not make us forget that the Faroes have 18 islands with radically different characters.

Tórshavn, the pocket capital

Tórshavn, the smallest capital in Europe with its 22,000 inhabitants, surprises with its intimate scale. The Tinganes district, on the promontory that separates the two ports, is a labyrinth of red wooden houses with grass-covered roofs: an almost medieval image that has remained the symbol of the city. The colorful harbor, the few fish restaurants, and the National Museum are enough for a good two days.

Gásadalur, the village of the falls

Accessible only on foot until 2004, Gásadalur is now connected by a tunnel. Its dozen cliffside houses, with the Múlafossur Falls falling directly into the Atlantic, make up the most photographed landscape in the Faroes. Arrive early in the morning to catch the low lights and avoid groups.

Sørvágsvatn, the impossible lake

The optical illusion of Lake Sørvágsvatn has become a global photographic phenomenon. From the cliffs of Trælanípan, the 3 km long lake seems to float a hundred meters above the ocean. The geological reality is more prosaic (30 m of elevation gain), but the effect remains dizzying. 3 to 4 hour round trip hike from the village of Sørvágur.

Mykines, the island of puffins

The westernmost island of the archipelago is a sanctuary. Between May and August, thousands of Atlantic puffins nest in the grassy cliffs within telephoto or even handy range. Access is by ferry from Sørvágur (30 min) or by helicopter, subject to favourable weather. Cancellations are frequent in case of heavy seas: allow flexibility in the agenda.

Kirkjubøur, the medieval village

14 km from Tórshavn, Kirkjubøur is the oldest village in the archipelago. The ruins of St. Magnus' Cathedral (13th century), which have remained unfinished, and the Roykstovan farm, which has been occupied by the same family since the 14th century, form an exceptional medieval ensemble. Sufficient half-day, ideally combined with Tórshavn.

Vestmanna and its cliffs

The 600-metre-high cliffs of Vestmanna can be discovered by boat from the fishing village of the same name. The excursions last about 2 hours and go deep into dark sea caves where the walls are teeming with birds. An experience not to be missed for lovers of wild nature.

Our itineraries

In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

The point that makes most French travelers stumble: the Faroe Islands are NOT part of the Schengen area, despite being part of Denmark. The French national identity card is not accepted. A valid passport is mandatory. No visa is required for a stay of less than 90 days.

French nationals do not need any special vaccinations. The Faroese health system is efficient, with a hospital in Tórshavn. Travel insurance is strongly recommended (repatriation, cancellation for weather).

Getting around

The car is the reference mode of transport. The road network is in excellent condition, including the underwater tunnels (some in one direction alternating, managed by traffic lights). The paid tunnels (Eysturoy, Borðoy) cost between €10 and €20 one way. GPS works well; recommended applications: maps.fo (detailed local maps).

Ferries connect non-tunneled islands such as Suðuroy, Mykines, Hestur or Koltur. The timetables are seasonal and crossings are cancelled in case of heavy seas. For Mykines in particular, allow two days of margin in your program.

Public buses (Strandfaraskip Landsins) serve the main localities but with limited frequency. Unsuitable for exploring the archipelago at your own pace.

Culture and uses

The Faroese are discreet and warm. The Faroese language is close to Old Icelandic; a few words are enough to break the ice (takk for thank you, góðan dag for hello). English is spoken by everyone, even in the smallest villages.

Sheep roam freely on the roads: be careful on mountain roads, especially at night. Respect the fences around nesting areas (signs in place from May to August). The cliffs are often unprotected: do not approach the edge in strong winds, and never underestimate the local weather.

Fermented (skerpikjøt) and dried (ræstur fiskur) food is a deep cultural tradition. Try it at least once, even if the smell is surprising.

Frequently asked questions