Bangladesh

Why Bangladesh

Bangladesh is one of the last great authentic journeys in Asia. In this country where the water dictates the rhythm of the seasons, the landscapes are strikingly beautiful and almost no one has yet discovered them. The Ganges-Brahmaputra delta, the largest in the world, makes Bangladesh a river country where villages float, markets are held on canoes and the journey from one city to another is made by water or rickshaw.

Dhaka is the most immediate sign of this unique energy: twenty million people, two million rickshaws painted with floral motifs and celebrity portraits, a city that overflows on all sides and yet fascinates. Old Dhaka (Puran Dhaka) preserves traces of Mughal grandeur in its forts and mosques, while the alleys are teeming with embroiderers, spice merchants and street cooks who smoke every crossroads.

Then there are the Sundarbans, a mangrove forest shared with India, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can glide by boat through silent channels, between the roots of mangrove trees, knowing that the Bengal tiger prowls in the shadows. And in the far southeast, Cox's Bazar has 120 kilometers of golden sand without a single break, what is known as the longest natural beach in the world. Bangladesh is unlike any other destination.

When to go to Bangladesh

The dry season runs from November to mid-March and concentrates most of the visits. Temperatures are pleasant (13 to 28°C in Dhaka), rainfall is practically non-existent and roads are passable throughout the country. December and January are the ideal months: the sky is blue, the vegetation is still green after the monsoon, and the Sundarbans offer the best conditions for wildlife viewing.

The great monsoon, from June to September, turns much of Bangladesh into an inland sea. The country has been living with these floods for millennia, and for locals they are part of the natural cycle. But for a foreign traveler, they mean cut roads, cancelled visits and increased health risks. These months should be avoided categorically for a classic tour.

The transition months (March-May and October) present cyclone risks in the delta, particularly around the Bay of Bengal. If you choose the rainy season for the sake of extreme travel, the Haors de Sylhet become vast expanses of water where you can glide in a boat among the giant water lilies, an unparalleled visual experience.

How much does it cost in Bangladesh

Bangladesh is one of the cheapest destinations in South Asia. A meal in a local restaurant costs between 1 and 3 EUR, a rickshaw ride just pennies. An independent traveler who is comfortable with the local conditions can get away with 25 EUR per day. With decent accommodations, meals in well-known restaurants and domestic transport, the comfortable budget hovers around 55 EUR per day.

The tours organized from France offer complete packages from around 1,200 EUR for 10 days (excluding flights). The Paris-Dhaka flight, with a mandatory stopover (Doha, Dubai or Istanbul depending on the company), is negotiated between 550 EUR in low season and 1,100 EUR during the holiday period. Qatar Airways, Emirates and Turkish Airlines are the most present companies on this route.

Where to go in Bangladesh

Bangladesh runs from north to south along its major rivers. Dhaka, in the centre, is the natural starting point for any tour. The Sundarbans occupy the south-west corner, accessible from the port of Mongla or the town of Khulna. Cox's Bazar closes the country in the extreme south-east, on the border with Myanmar.

Dhaka, the electric capital

Dhaka is an experience in its own right even before it is a book of visits. You first let yourself be carried away by the flow of rickshaws in the arteries shaded by ficus, then you dive into the labyrinth of old Dhaka around Chowk Bazar. The Lalbagh Fort, begun in the 17th century and never completed, offers a haven of greenery in the midst of urban chaos. The port of Sadarghat, where three-decker ferries loaded with thousands of passengers set sail every hour, is one of the liveliest sights in Asia.

The Sundarbans, between mangroves and tigers

Exploring the Sundarbans is done aboard a hotel boat that sails for several days in the channels. At dawn, the Irrawaddy dolphins jump at the bow. Along the water, spotted deer come to drink at the edge of the forest. The forest rangers say that a tiger crossed the channel the night before. We may not see it, but we only think of it.

Cox's Bazar, the endless beach

One hundred and twenty kilometers of sand is a reality that is difficult to visualize before being there. The beach of Cox's Bazar far exceeds in length anything known in Southeast Asia. It is mainly frequented by Bangladeshis, which gives it a festive and authentic character. To the south, the island of Saint Martin, accessible by ferry in the dry season, is the only coral atoll in Bangladesh.

Sylhet, the region of tea plantations

On the edge of the country, to the northeast, Sylhet and its surroundings unfurl hills carpeted with green tea plantations. Srimangal, nicknamed the "Tea Capital", is the base for exploring the gardens and tasting the seven layers of glass tea, a local speciality that is as spectacular as it is delicious. The Lawachara Reserve is home to endangered hooded gibbons, which can be seen in the morning from the forest trails.

Bagerhat, the city of sixty domes

Bagerhat is a well-kept secret: founded in the 15th century by the holy warrior Khan Jahan Ali, this ancient Islamic capital of the delta is home to more than 360 baked brick monuments in a peaceful green setting. The Shait Gumbad Mosque (the Sixty Domes) is a masterpiece of medieval Bengali architecture, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Ghora Dighi, a sacred lake populated by giant tortoises, completes the visit.

Our itineraries in Bangladesh

In pictures

Practical advice

Entry requirements

French nationals need a visa to enter Bangladesh. Two options: Visa on Arrival (USD 51, available at Dhaka Airport) or e-visa (to be applied online at bevisa.immigration.gov.bd at least 5 days before departure). The passport must be valid for at least 6 months after the intended date of entry. A return ticket and proof of accommodation are recommended at the checkpoint.

Consult a travel doctor for health recommendations before departure: hepatitis A and typhoid are strongly recommended, and malaria prophylaxis may be necessary depending on the areas visited (Cox's Bazar, Sylhet, Chittagong).

Getting around the country

Long-distance ferries are the most authentic and sometimes convenient means of transport to connect Dhaka with Barisal, Khulna or Patuakhali. First-class tickets offer clean cabins and an ideal observation post over the delta. For land travel, "express" buses are ok between major cities; the train exists but is often slow and not very punctual. In the city, the CNG (compressed natural gas auto-rickshaw) and the pedal rickshaw are the two preferred modes of travel.

Culture and uses

Bangladesh is a Muslim-majority country, practicing a generally tolerant and open Islam. Female solo travelers are numerous and generally report positive experiences, as long as they adopt a modest outfit (shoulders and knees covered). In rural areas, asking permission before photographing residents is a welcome mark of respect. Ramadan involves reduced hours in public restaurants; travelers are treated with kindness but discretion in public is good manners.

Bengali (or Bangla) is the national language, celebrated on February 21 (International Mother Language Day, which Bangladesh originated). A few words in Bengali immediately open hearts: "dhonnobad" (thank you), "salam" (hello in a Muslim context), "kemon achen?" (how are you?). English is understood in hotels and restaurants in the big cities, but rare outside of it.

Frequently asked questions