Israel

Why Israel

There are countries that change your relationship with the world. Israel is one of them. In a territory the size of Brittany, you will come across the Western Wall where worshippers have been slipping prayers between the stones for two thousand years, the beaches of Tel Aviv where young people play volleyball until midnight, and the waters so dense that the body floats in it without any possible effort. It is not a country that you visit: it is a country that visits you.

Jerusalem, first. The Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, can be crossed on foot, from district to district, each with its own rhythm and its own prayers. The Holy Sepulchre of the Christians, the Esplanade of the Mosques with its Dome of the Rock with turquoise mosaics and its golden dome, the Western Wall where Jews from all over the world come to pray: everything fits in a few hundred meters. It's dizzying.

Tel Aviv, then, which has nothing to do with Jerusalem and that's exactly its charm. Founded in 1909 on the dunes, modern, secular, facing the Mediterranean, it is home to the largest concentration of Bauhaus buildings in the world (UNESCO-listed White City) and a gastronomic scene recognized as one of the most creative in the Middle East.

In between, the road runs along the Judean Desert, passes through Masada, and descends to the lowest point on Earth.

Important note:Since October 7, 2023, the security situation has deteriorated due to the conflict in Gaza and regional tensions. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Foreign Affairs recommends that you do not travel to Israel unless there are imperative reasons (situation on 01/09/2026). Always consult the Quai d'Orsay's travel advice before booking and at the time of departure.

When to go

The great Israeli mildness is concentrated in spring and autumn. In March-May, temperatures fluctuate between 13 and 28°C in Tel Aviv, the rains become scarce and the archaeological sites are still uncrowded. It's the perfect time to climb Masada at dawn, walk along the seaside in Tel Aviv and get lost in the alleys of Jerusalem.

October and November repeat this ideal window, with autumn lights that gild the stones of Jerusalem in an incomparable way. Be careful, however: Sukkot (Feast of Booths, late September-October) and Rosh Hashanah cause accommodation prices to skyrocket. Book several months in advance if your trip falls during these periods.

In summer (July-August), the heat reaches 32°C in Tel Aviv with pronounced coastal humidity. Outdoor sites such as Masada only compete at dawn or late afternoon. Winter (January-February) is the rainy season, but temperatures remain mild (18°C in Tel Aviv) and attendance is at its lowest.

How much does it cost

Israel is significantly more expensive than its Mediterranean neighbours. Expect to pay €80 to €150 per person per day for a comfortable trip (3-4 star hotel, restaurant meals, transport, site entrances). Organised tours from France start from €1,400 per person for 7-8 days, excluding flights. A return Paris-Tel Aviv ticket varies between €200 (low season) and €500 in high season: El Al, Air France and Transavia operate the direct connection in about 4 hours and 30 minutes.

To travel tightly: falafel and street shawarma are €4-6, intercity buses cost €3-5 (Tel Aviv-Jerusalem: €3.50), and many museums are free on Friday mornings. Shabbat is also an opportunity to cook at the lodge: the Thursday evening markets are an invitation to stock up.

Where to go

Jerusalem, the center of the universe

Three monotheistic religions have been fighting for its stones for millennia, and yet Jerusalem vibrates with an intense daily life, between schoolchildren playing on the steps of the Holy Sepulchre and baklava vendors whose aluminum trays reflect the sun. The Old City is divided into four districts with radically different atmospheres: the Jewish quarter rebuilt after 1967, the Christian quarter and its dark alleys leading to the Holy Sepulchre, the Arab quarter and the souk on Chain Street, the more silent and meditative Armenian quarter.

The Western Wall (Kotel) is approached with respect: separate yourself from your bags in the security bin and approach in silence. The Esplanade of the Mosques is accessible to non-Muslims through a separate entrance (outside prayer hours): the view of the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque from the top of the esplanade gives a physical idea of the spiritual vertigo of the city.

Tel Aviv-Jaffa, the city that doesn't sleep

The seaside promenade (tayelet) stretches for several kilometers between Jaffa in the south and Jaffa Port in the north: cyclotracks, matkot players (beach rackets), cafes on stilts, everything unfolds with contagious energy. The Neve Tzedek district, the first Jewish neighborhood founded outside the walls of Jaffa in 1887, has become the most elegant in the city, with its low houses transformed into designer shops and galleries.

Old Jaffa, integrated into the city, deserves an entire evening: the Thursday flea market, the artists' studios set up in former Ottoman warehouses and the fish restaurants in the port offer a less young and more Mediterranean version of Tel Aviv.

The Dead Sea and Masada

The road to Jerusalem descends to the Dead Sea through the Judean Desert, a landscape of ochre and beige ravines among the harshest in the world. In Masada, you have to get up at 4:30 am to take the first cable car (or climb on foot along the Snake Trail in 45 minutes) and be on the plateau at sunrise, when the desert and the Dead Sea are ablaze in orange hues: one of the most beautiful travel experiences in the Middle East.

Then the Dead Sea: the body floats without making the slightest effort in these waters with 34% salt. Dry up on black mineral mud all over your body, let it dry in the sun and rinse in the fresh water of the beach. It's kitsch and wonderful at the same time.

Haifa and the North

Haifa is a pleasant surprise: a peaceful port city where Jews and Arabs live together better than anywhere else, it is dominated by the Baha'i Hanging Gardens, nineteen perfectly trimmed terraces that slope down to the sea. The old Arab town of Wadi Nisnas, with its street art galleries and homemade hummus restaurants, is worth a visit.

Thirty minutes away by train, Akko (Acre) is another UNESCO wonder: the Templar tunnels, dug in the twelfth century under the city, run for several hundred meters between the foundations of Ottoman buildings. The Akko Bazaar is the most authentic in Israel.

Our itineraries

In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

Was it mandatory since 2025.French nationals must obtain this electronic travel authorization before departure (minimum 72 hours in advance), on the official website of the Israel Population and Immigration Authority. Cost: 25 shekels (about €7). Passport valid for at least 6 months on the date of application. ETA-IL does not guarantee entry: the immigration officer remains sovereign on arrival.

Shabbat (Friday night to Saturday night):Most public transport stops, many shops and restaurants close. Plan ahead for your trips and provisions. Taxis and Uber continue to operate, at a premium price.

Breadcrumb Trail Registrationon the MEAE application: recommended as soon as you arrive to be contacted in the event of a security crisis.

Customs:You can import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of alcohol and 250 ml of perfume. Imported food products are often controlled.

Getting around

The long-distance bus is the easiest and cheapest way to travel between cities. The company Egged (and Kavim in the north) covers the entire country. Tel Aviv-Jerusalem: 1 hour 15 minutes, about €3.50. The train connects Tel Aviv with Haifa (55 min), Akko and Beersheba. In Tel Aviv, the tram (Red Line) has been crossing the city from one side to the other since 2023.

For the Dead Sea and Masada, bus 486 from Jerusalem Central Station serves Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea hotels. Car rental offers more freedom (please note: no cross-border rental possible to Jordan or Egypt with most agencies).

Culture and uses

Omnipresent religion:Friday is sacred for Muslims, Saturday for Jews, Sunday for Christians: depending on the neighborhood, the rhythms of life change radically. Dress soberly (shoulders and knees covered) in holy places and religious neighborhoods.

Gastronomy:Hummus is a religion in itself in Israel. Each neighborhood has its own restaurant, its homemade recipes with tahini, smoked paprika, whole chickpeas. Falafel, shakshuka (poached eggs in a spicy tomato sauce), Israeli salad (cucumber, tomato, onion in very fine brunette) and mezze are the fundamentals of a Middle Eastern cuisine revisited with a lot of creativity in Tel Aviv.

Gratuities:10% in restaurants is the norm; 5-10% for taxis.

Telephone:French operators operate in roaming (check your offers). Buying a local SIM (Cellcom, Hot Mobile) is simple and economical if you are staying for more than a week.

Frequently asked questions