Bosnia and Herzegovina

Why Bosnia and Herzegovina

There are destinations in Europe that you come across on a map without really seeing them. Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of them. Too often reduced to its wounds, to the memory of the siege of Sarajevo or the destruction of the Mostar bridge, it surprises every time those who dare to set foot there: it is one of the most singular and intense countries on the continent.

In Sarajevo, Ottoman minarets and Catholic bell towers, the Sephardic synagogue and the Orthodox church keep company a few dozen meters from each other. The Baščaršija, the beating heart of the old city, looks more like Istanbul than Vienna, yet barely 2 hours by plane from Paris. In its smoky cafes, you can drink copper kafa while discussing politics, football and philosophy, while copper craftsmen pound their trays in alleys unchanged since the sixteenth century.

100 kilometres to the south, Mostar and its reconciled Stari Most span the Neretva with a stone arch that looks like a civil miracle. And everywhere else, a wild nature that few European travellers have yet explored: the limestone gorges of the Neretva, the primary forest of Sutjeska, the inland waterfalls of Jajce, the floating mills of Lake Pliva. Bosnia and Herzegovina is the last great secret of the Balkans. It won't be for much longer.

When to go

Bosnia and Herzegovina can be visited over a long season, but the ideal windows are well defined.

May and Juneare the months for connoisseurs: temperatures in Sarajevo fluctuate between 10 and 23°C, the vegetation in the valleys is bright green after the spring rains, and the sights (Mostar, Baščaršija) are still untouched by the summer crowds. The mountain roads are reopening and hiking in the Sutjeska National Park is practicable.

July and August: Summer is hot and very lively. Sarajevo hosts two unmissable highlights, the Sarajevo Film Festival (one of the largest in Eastern Europe, at the end of July) and the Baščaršija Nights, a cultural festival spread throughout the month of July. Mostar fills up to bursting around the bridge, to the point that divers who jump from the Stari Most now have their own exhibition times. Book accommodation and transport in advance.

Septemberis often the best compromise: the crowds withdraw, prices go down, and temperatures remain ideal (13-25°C in Sarajevo). It is also the harvest period in Herzegovina.

Octoberwell suited to cultural circuits: Sarajevo and Mostar are lived without crowds, the forests turn ochre in the massifs. The mountain roads are gradually starting to close.

Winter (December-March)is cold and snowy in Sarajevo, with temperatures often below zero at night. This is the ideal season for skiing on the former 1984 Olympic slopes (Jahorina, Bjelasnica), which are cheaper and less crowded than the Alps. November is the rainiest month: avoid it if possible.

How much does it cost

Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the most affordable destinations in the Balkans. Its currency, the convertible mark (BAM), is pegged at a fixed rate to the euro (1 euro = 1.956 BAM), which simplifies calculations and protects against exchange rate fluctuations.

A meal in a local konoba (grill or family restaurant) costs 6-10 euros for a main course with a drink. A Bosnian coffee in the Baščaršija: less than 1 euro. Tram transport in Sarajevo costs about 1.10 euros per ticket. Nights in a bed and breakfast or single board range from 30 to 60 euros, boutique hotels between 60 and 120 euros.

Count between 45 and 80 euros per person per day all inclusive for a couple's trip (accommodation, meals, local transport, tickets). An 8-day organized tour starts from 1,040 euros per person excluding flights. A Paris-Sarajevo round trip is between 80 euros in low season and 280 euros in the middle of summer.

Where to go

Bosnia and Herzegovina is divided into two distinct administrative entities (Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina to the north and west, Republika Srpska to the east and south), but for the traveller, two geographical areas are necessary.

Sarajevo and its regionconcentrate the historical and cultural depth of the country. The capital can be visited in 3-4 full days, between the Ottoman Baščaršija, the war museums (including the Resistance Tunnel Museum, a must-see), the recently restored Vijećnica National Library and the views from the Bijela Tabija fortress. An hour's drive away, the Neretva Canyon around Konjic offers an exceptional natural playground for rafting and kayaking, with the bonus of Tito's amazing nuclear bunker.

Herzegovina, to the south, is a drier, more Mediterranean region, with its vineyards, fig trees and light. Mostar is the capital of the heart with the Stari Most, but Blagaj (the Sufi tekke at the source of the Buna), Pocitel (the medieval village in terraces), Trebinje (the town of hundred-year-old plane trees 30 km from Dubrovnik) are each worth a visit. Further north, Jajce and its inland waterfalls and Pliva lakes are the ideal stop for a tour that goes up to Zagreb or Banja Luka.

Our itineraries

Three types of travel logic are necessary: the classic Sarajevo-Herzegovina (8 days), the complete Bosnia from north to south (12 days), or a nature and culture version from Sarajevo down the Neretva canyon to Mostar (7 days).

In pictures

Practical advice

Formalities

Bosnia and Herzegovina is not a member of the European Union or the Schengen Area. French nationals do not need a visa for a tourist stay of up to 90 days, upon presentation of a passport. Please note: French national identity cards issued between 1 January 2004 and 31 December 2013 are refused at the Bosnian borders. The passport must be valid for at least 3 months after the planned date of return.

The entry stamp is mandatory and must be included in the passport at every border crossing, especially when crossing the road. If you are staying in a private rental (Airbnb, homestay) for more than 3 days, you must register yourself with the police within 48 hours (or ask the owner to do so). Hotels take care of this automatically.

For non-EU visitors: Bosnia and Herzegovina has its own visa agreements, separate from the Schengen area. Check the requirements according to nationality.

Getting around

By plane:Sarajevo (SJJ) is connected directly to Paris in 2 hours to 2 hours 30 minutes. Flights are available from Paris with Transavia, Wizz Air and other low-cost airlines depending on the season. Mostar Airport (OMO) provides some seasonal connections. From Split or Dubrovnik (Croatia), a long-distance bus connects Mostar in 2h30 to 3h.

By bus:The long-distance bus network is reliable and covers the entire country. Sarajevo-Mostar: about 2 hours 30 minutes. Sarajevo-Jajce: about 2 hours. International buses connect Sarajevo with Dubrovnik, Split, Belgrade and Vienna daily.

By car:Recommended for exploring the north (Jajce, Banja Luka) and less connected areas. Driving on national roads is ok, but mountain roads require vigilance and experience: Bosnia and Herzegovina has one of the highest rates of road accidents in Europe. Avoid driving at night on secondary roads. Rental possible in Sarajevo and Mostar.

By train:The railway network is limited but picturesque. The Sarajevo-Mostar line is one of the most beautiful in Europe (Neretva gorges, viaducts), but slow (2 hours 45 minutes for 100 km). Few other useful connections for tourism.

Culture and uses

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a plural society where Bosnians (mostly Muslims), Serbs (Orthodox) and Croats (Catholics) live side by side. This diversity is experienced on a daily basis in the public space, the kitchen and the architecture. Some essential landmarks:

Language:Bosnian, Croatian, and Serbian are mutually intelligible and coexist on the same streets. In tourist areas, English is commonly spoken by the younger generation. Some useful words:hvala(thank you),Molim(please),Dobar Dan(hello),Koliko Kosta(how much does it cost).

Religion:Sarajevo is one of the few cities in the world where the muezzin's call to prayer, church bells and the silence of synagogues are superimposed on the same street. Respect the dress codes in mosques (take off your shoes, cover shoulders and hairs for women). Avoid discussions about war and inter-community tensions, which remain a sensitive subject.

Bosnian coffee:Drinking coffee in Bosnia is a social act. The kafa arrives in a džezva (small copper pot) with a glass of water and sugar cubes. Taking your time is the rule. Refusing a free coffee is frowned upon.

Tips:Not mandatory but appreciated in restaurants. About 10% in medium-sized establishments. Taxis or local guides also appreciate a tip.

Politics and war:The 1992-1995 war is still a raw wound. Approach the subject tactfully if your hosts talk about it themselves. Do not discuss inter-community politics with strangers. Reconciliation is an ongoing process.

Frequently asked questions